I’ve now finished editing the photos from our Fontainebleau trip. Considering how many there were, it didn’t actually take that long. Or at least, it didn’t seem to. As I say, there were an awful lot, but you can see the best of them in my Flickr set.
It seems that every time we go to Font, our number increases. This trend continued this year too, with the addition of Benny’s work mate, and fellow Castle climber Craig joining us (he’s the guy in the photo doing the crazy dyno!) It was nice to have a new person along, and his enthusiasm is infectious. He’s also fairly well versed with Fonts numerous locations, so we took some advice from him as for where to go.
On Saturday, we got a good, early start in and headed straight to Bas Cuvier. This area is holds a number of classic problems of various grades, as well as a few circuits and the Fontainebleau’s first ever 6a – Marie Rose. Ben and I gave Marie Rose a good go, but sadly both came away empty handed, both having struggled with the slopping, tenuous top out! It’s on the list for a future project (along with, what would be, many others!). After this, we regrouped and cherry picked a few problems from the Orange and Blue circuits, and had a play on a few of the Red problems. By this point, I was starting to get my eye in, and stopped feeling quite so nervy about topping out, and/or falling (images of the ankle busting trip last August were still haunting me in the back of my mind!). Ben and I even manged to flash a Red circuit problem La V1, which goes at a grade of 5. Not too impressive in the grand scheme of things, but reassuring that we’re making progress.
Further exploration later revealed to us what would become one of my favourite projects of the whole weekend! We stumbled upon a sloping rail traverse, into a cool, but intimidating top out! It didn’t have any visible grade or number, but looked far too cool to pass up, so we jumped on nd gave it a go. It didn’t take too long for us to put the/a sequence together which felt very cool! I came close, linking all the way to the last couple of moves before arm pump and uncertainty got the better of me and I had to bail! So close! Maybe next time.

Benny on the Bas Cuvier Traverse project
From here we decided to head back to the main area, which was by this time, jam packed. Craig had his eye on making an attempt of Carnage (7b), and he assured us that there was a multitude of other classic problems for us all to try. Sure enough we all found plenty to play on, which kept us amused until we were all too tired, and more importantly, too hungry to continue. It was steak time!
Sunday morning was wet. It wasn’t raining as such when we woke up, but it certainly had been throughout the night. Undeterred, we made our way out and headed to the Franchard area. This proved to be a rather wet and mossy mistake. All the rain, coupled with dense tree cover meant that only a handful of boulders were dry, and even remotely climbable. Ashby and I had a token attempt at a Red problem, but none of us could really summon up much enthusiasm for anything else. We decided it would be a wise idea to head for somewhere more exposed and hopefully, a lot drier. Roche aux Sabots was the place we decided to head for, and sure enough it was just what we needed! It was dry as a bone, and busy! Craig disappeared off to try some things, Snoo and Speedie set about making short work of a range of Blue circuit problems, while Ben, Ashby and I found ourselves some Red and Blue circuit projects. Sabot is another little goldmine! After a while, we all ended up back in one spot which seemed to have a project for everyone, which was lucky. Ben, Craig and I were working on a sweet little arête problem while the other three worked a handful of blues. By this point, the skies had cleared and we were all back into the spirit of it! As our respective projects got dispatched, we moved further into the woods to find more problems. Craig noticed a group of people working a roof problem, which apparently, goes at 6a, so we joined in for a while. There was a cool, supportive atmosphere as about five or six people took it in turns to try the problem. After a while a Dutch guy managed to the tricky, high footed top out which then opened the flood gates for everyone. Ben and I sent the problem back-to-back! Our first Font 6a! Woohoo!
We then joined Craig to try the crazy, 7a+ dyno in the photo above. He came pretty close a few times, but couldn’t quite stick it. It was a really scrunchy start, off pretty questionable foot holds, but I gave it a try and came fairly close – no where near sticking it though. I need to work on my dyno technique for sure!
After all that, all that was left for a hardcore slackline session before heading back into town for a curry at the amusing named Raj Mahal. It was another excellent trip, and it felt nice to be climbing outdoors again – it’s been a while. I also feel that I’ve laid my Font demons to rest after the ankle incident last year. I’m so psyched for America now! It’s going to be amazing!